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zak99b5

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Everything posted by zak99b5

  1. Ultimate field is plug-in, not battery. It's a little quieter than an old 620. All players and bases run on it just as well as a 620, sometimes better (smoother). 620s are great, but the Ultimate is a fair bit bigger, giving you more space. I really like my Ultimate field. I did upgrade the motor to a GBN electro-magnetic motor (which necessitates raising the field so it fits underneath). Definitely worth it in my eyes, but the board works fine out of the box.
  2. Thanks. I know I have seen a couple quick kicks in the NFL (I don't watch college that much) but didn't remember how long ago that was.
  3. I like the suggestion of guarding against the quick kick. When was the last time one was attempted in the NFL? Does anyone use the quick kick in EF?
  4. Yes, that motor was not designed for 240VAC.
  5. So, the original Tudor and later Miggle motor works (basically) by reversing magnetic polarity with the Hz of the AC voltage changing polarity, acting on the bolt that's threaded into the field. You adjust the "speed" of the board by bringing the tip of that bolt closer or farther away from the electromagnet, getting a stronger or weaker 60Hz magnetic pull. So the board always vibrates at the same speed, just different intensity. Your MNF board, of course, is vibrating at 50Hz, not 60. I doubt that difference has any real impact on gameplay since the screw is adjustable, but I'd bet with the screw in the same position, the board would run a little differently at the two AC frequencies.
  6. Hadn't thought about that before--isn't UK mains at 50Hz vs 60 Hz for US? I am assuming your adapter also steps the voltage down to 120VAC? If not, that might be your issue...
  7. You can get water slide number decals online, or maybe BeeNutt (Bryan Nutt) can mail you some. That's where I got the yellow number decals for my 30s Packers.
  8. It just takes practice. Maybe pick a team you're not terribly interested in as a first attempt. Buy good very fine brushes. Using arcrylics, you'll likely have to do a number of coats. Enamels are usually one and done--something to consider. Some people also use toothpicks for fine lines (I do not). Just relax and enjoy the process. If it starts to get annoying, just step away for a bit. And remember that little mistakes won't be noticeable when you're playing the game, and bigger mistakes just mean more paint! I usually paint teams to the "close enough" standard. They are small as you point out, and during game play (at a distance) they look fine. For example, I recently painted the Browns. They have five stripes on their socks and sleeves/shoulders alternating white and orange. I merely painted a wider white stripe then painted an orange one in the middle of that. It's not technically accurate, but you know its the Browns, so "close enough." I've also painted helmet logos on a few teams. Vikings came out great, as did the Bears and Steelers. At times, too much detail can make things look a little funny at this scale. I think of it like when they draw cartoons, characters have 4 fingers, but it looks normal and better than when they try to draw all 5. One thing I DO NOT paint is jersey numbers. And I do not like the standard Tudor stickers. So I use the decals (which include helmet logos that I will use as well). I bought the newer NFL number stickers for the Browns, but I realized too late that it uses the "modern" color scheme of orange, not the traditional white, so I haven't used them yet. I'll just use leftover white numbers from my Packers decal sheet.
  9. Many people call a fumble when the front of the defender's base contacts the rear of the ball-carrier's base. You can drop a ball on top of the fumbler's head and let it land where it may. Point unengaged players at it and run the ball to see who recovers it. With your 6 a side, are you including 2 linemen?
  10. I agree. It would be nice to focus just on painting the uniform.
  11. Looks good! Too bad it's Da Bearse (Packer fan here). I see the blue/black layered foam floor tile pieces in the pic--I cut 4 squares from the same exact stuff as big as the feet on the board and attached them for padding, no matter where I place the board.
  12. Played a second game with the GBN motor vs another coach. We were very impressed with how well the Ultimate board runs with it. Thinking Tudor might want to add this motor as an option when purchasing, along with some leg extensions (or just taller legs to start)?
  13. Yes, you can buy just the ultimate controller and power supply plus cords. Your battery controller may well work with the power supply, but I am not 100% sure. You may have to splice a coupe wires in it. But really, I'd just get the ultimate board--it's great.
  14. I did just have an idea—I’m going to try putting the numbers on the jersey while it’s still on the backing paper. Before applying to the figure. If anyone’s tried this, lmk. Otherwise, I’ll be the Guinea pig
  15. I think they look pretty good, but they look like stickers on a plastic guy. I also think the numbers are the weakest part. The added details are great, but I think I prefer painted players.
  16. Sorry for all the typos in the first post! Heres some pics.
  17. So I bought a set of the (ahem) San Diego Chargers for my first uni form team. Ive only some two figures (the backer, which i use as the he qb and te). I figured his uptight stance and spread out arms would make it the easiest. They went on ok. The second one was far easier than the first. Makes me wish Tudor would include a “starter” figure and uni form so you can practice, kinda like pre-season. Maybe as an option? The chargers have no center helmet stripe, so getting the sides/front film lined up is a little tricky. Second time was easier. Putting on the numbers was also trickier than anticipated. Spacing and vertical placement can be hard, since you need to place two digits. You can also notice the edges of the number film, especially at the top. Maybe the film should be in jersey color??
  18. I too prefer enamels for painting teams. Especially for the player platform--impossible for me to get a good even coat of green on that using arcrylics! And stripes come out much easier, as the enamel flows better as well as covers better.
  19. In our league, we eyeball it if we are adjusting a player normally. If the player we are picking up to adjust is close to the action, we put an empty base as a marker, like using a ball marker when your on the green in golf.
  20. Played a game on the Ultimate with the GBN motor. Excellent! Had to put blocks under the feet for clearance, but that's not an issue. I didn't realize it when I ordered the motor, but it just sticks with magnets, so it super easy to try out different positions. Tried it in the corner of the endzone, which worked fine, and also along the sideline at the 50 (what we played the game with). I'm not sure if the sideline was better than the endzone placement, as the men ran fine with either position. But I will say it was good improvement over the two Tudor motors I had under there before. Well worth the $. I already have two push-button switched extension cords (needed with the GBN) that I made so we could leave the switches turned on on the old Tudor fields. Basically, I screwed a momentary switch between the prongs of one extension cord (using the holes in the prongs) and spliced the other end into the hot wire of a second extension cord, making a dogleg.
  21. Glad to hear you're having fun. As for timing the game, in my league we use 8 plays a quarter (beer league). I posted the score sheet we use on another thread here if you're interested in seeing it. Coach Kinchen has a more refined version of this where plays that stay in bounds count as one minute, and out-of-bounds or incomplete passes count as 15 seconds. Simply add up the "time" of each play and end the quarter when you get to 15 (or whatever you decide) minutes (simpified by me). Note that PAT attempts aren't timed plays, nor are free kicks that aren't returned. Scrimmage kicks (FGs and punts) are. My kickoffs are done with the kicking team at or behind the 50 yardline. Receiving team has five on the 40, four on the 20, and two returners at the goal line at the hashes. We drop the ball between the returners, and whoever the ball lands closer to (or hits) has it. Pivot return team, pivot kicking team, and run the board till the play is completed. Results are typical NFL kickoff returns, minus the inevitable illegal block flags! FGs and PAT kicks are done with only two players. We set two magnets a long passing stick apart at the goal line, centered side to side. "Kicking" team puts one player at the LOS (FG) or the PAT mark on the field, and the other team puts one player at the goal line. They can then be pivoted. Run the board; if the kicking team player goes into the enzone between the magnets, the kick is good--contact between the players doesn't matter.
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