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zak99b5

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Everything posted by zak99b5

  1. Ready for numbers. I bought a sheet of yellow #s from Beenutt a couple years ago, but I'm having trouble laying hands on it. Found a sheet of yellow Tudor sticker numbers. Maybe I'll use them till I either find or buy the decals.
  2. Sorry for upside down pic. Also like that there's no leg stripe to paint.
  3. For Christmas son #2 bought me a Mean 13 set. Painting them as I type. Finished the skin tones and the platforms. I am going to make them the Wolverines. Hope the helmets do justice to the originals. No sock or sleeve stripes on the uniform makes them a little easier. And I already have yellow uni numbers from Bnutt. I use Testors paint. Flows and covers well, dries fast. I like the gloss look, just like original Tudor figs.
  4. I'm intrigued by the magnetic field covers. I have two non-metal fields, and old fiberboard 600 (620-size) and a newer HPPS (620-size as well) field. Might be a good way to convert them to being able to use magnetic accessories?
  5. TY62--you just order the ultimate board and tell them what field cover you want. They apply it for you. You could of course get another (magnetic?) field cover to change up the look if you like.
  6. That one Gotham alien figure looks soooooo much better painted.
  7. The original baseball game has a Polo Grounds feel to it with the long, narrrow field. The later square one looks more like a bunch of other tabletop baseball games.
  8. Nice! I'm wondering just how the game was played. Why two "flippers?" Are they to pitch or hit?
  9. My league is refining using dice to determine pass completion. First, with a D6, we had a roll of 1-5 be complete if receiver was in backfield, 1-4 from LOS to 15 yards out, 1-3 from 16-30 yards, and 1-2 over 30. A roll of 6 would be an interception IF there were an unengaged defender within a passing placement stick of the intended receiver. This worked to speed up the game, but was far from ideal, with a QB 18 yards behind the LOS throwing to a receiver across the field and 15 yards past the LOS and a defender right next to him being pretty easy to complete. So we've decided to use the measuring passing stick to determine the roll. If it's a red pass 1-4, white pass 1-3, blue pass 1-2 (same INT rules). This made it a bit better and what we are finishing the season with. However, we want to refine this a bit. I have two D10s, one for the tens digit and one for the ones. But we need to decide on the percentages at the three distances. We found that over the modern NFL history, 57% of passes were complete (I'm sure it's a little higher now). First thought was to use same %s as before (0-66 roll complete on red pass, 0-50 white, 0-33 blue). Then we thought maybe make it 0-70 red, 0-55 white, 0-40 blue. What seems more realistic? Are there better percentages for us to use? Additionally, we are adding pressure: defender close enough to QB knocks the number to roll down 5 points, and a close defender to receiver would also reduce it another 5, with a possible 10 subtracted if both are under duress. It would only seem fair if the receiver is wide open that the roll target increases by say 5, like if there's no defender further downfield than he is on his side of the field (using the hashmarks somehow?) Congrats if you read all this. I'm looking forward to the input of my fellow EFers.
  10. Could you post the measurements of the Tudor passing sticks? The "normal" Buzz Ball passing sticks are based on the yards of an old 620 field and are likely different, as the Tudor ones are based on base lengths. Normal measuring stick is 40 yards long (half red, half white) Red placement stick is 6 yards White placement stick is 12 yards Blue placement stick is 18 yards The pressure placement sticks appear in the photos above to add 3 yards to each placement stick. Pressure measuring stick seems to be about 8 yards.
  11. Sweet. I want to build a coffee table in a similar way, using a midsize (635?) Super Bowl field.
  12. Those look great, though it pains my heart becuase that team ended the Packers' season so many times back then.
  13. More info on these twist tie footballs?
  14. I was surprised to find them, but the team I bought this past summer is indeed Redskins, not Commanders. All painted; looked a bit like NOS from the Miggle era.
  15. I needed to make a momentary switched extension cord to use the GBN motor. I found a push-button momentary switch at home cheapo. Also bought two extension cords. On one of the cords, I fit the switch between the blades of the plugs and utilized the holes in them for the terminal screws on the switch. Taped it all up well. Clipped the other end of that cord off. On the other cord I cut one of the wires (hot side, but it doesn't reall matter) near the female plug end. Stripped back the insulation on the cut wires there and at the end of the cord with the switch. I used heat-shrink butt connectors and crimped the switch cord into the other, so now it's a dogleg. I made a second one, and all our board's switches are always turned to ON and we use the momentary switch to control the action. Works great.
  16. We allow the receiver to pivot to catch the ball. One defender may also pivot to try to intercept. After the pass is completed, the receiver may pivot to run, and all unengaged defenders can pivot to make the tackle.
  17. I bought a set of painted white jersey Redskins from Tudor this summer. Are they all out?
  18. That motor looks a bit similar to the GBN motor I now use on the Ultimate field. Same magnetic mounting At about $50, the GBN cost less than half of the ITZ motor though.
  19. That's funny, because my Ultimate already came with an AC plug and converter to power the regular motor. The battery spot on the play action remote was taped shut.
  20. I looked for info on the new Ultimate motor but saw nothing on the website.
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