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Also, my center must've entered the portal, because he's MIA 😡

I took two more pics, but when I upload them, they're just black??

Got the correct color number decals on my Michigan team.

What happens when you pick it up? I tried something similar (made from aluminum C-channel with a handle in the middle) and I could never remove it without disturbing players.

So cool to see these roaring 20s men on the gridiron. Well done.

Thing is, buying a used 620-series board free of dents on the field on evilBay and having it shipped will usually cost at least as much as a new mini-ultimate field, and often times a lot more. Then add the price of the vinyl and application. Finding a 620 at a garage sale or thrift store would be the only way you'd get one for cheap. But that's pretty rare, at least in my experience. Though I did find an old (50s) 500 set in my old house when I bought it!

With field covers, they could at least offer many of the classic boards' designs in a relatively inexpensive way. I assume they own the artwork. I like that the offer the Tru-Action field cover, but there are so many more great looking ones. Now, if they offered a brand-new 620-style field (as I think some iteration of Tudor Games did in the not-so-distant past), I'd be all over that.

I got the decals from B-Nutt and got to work on my Michigan team painted on the Mean 13 figures. Yellow was a little bit darker than the yellow (maize) I used for the helmet stripes and pants, but it was acceptable. Plus the decals looked SOOOOO much better than the stick-on numbers, solid color, nice and crisp. As I set the last two sets of #s on the sponge to soak for the last two players, I decided to put the sheet back into the mailing sleeve it came in to save them for the 50s Classic Packers I'm doing next. Low and behold, inside I find a second sheet of yellow number decals, in a brighter shade! Started frantically getting the darker decals off the players before they could totally dry. A wet q-tip worked pretty well. I was sad to remove 22 decals that looked pretty good, but I know I'll be much happier with a yellow that much better matches the uniforms.

I'm going to pull out my clear speed diamond bases and a pair of plier and have at it!

I snip out the decal I want to use and only place that on the sponge. Never the whole sheet.

The hoarder in me is getting anxious!

I do not like to play on my Miggle super bowl field because its such flimsy, thin metal that everyone set up already moves when you place another player down, unless you are super careful. I will say, the guys do seem to run pretty well on it though. But I'd never dream of tossing the thing!

Ordered yellow varsity numbers from Beenutt for both the Michigan team I painted a little bit ago and the Classic 50s Packers team I will paint.

Nice. I'm going to paint a team with those uniforms.

Looks like paint & decals to me.

No idea how I missed the pics of those first two Super Bowl fields. Totally awesome.

DAH DAH DA-DUH DA DA Go Pack Go!

Wow--great! I saw those figs online, but listed as "sold out" or something. I'd love to make two teams with them. How do they compare size-wise with the standard Haiti repros? And were they purchased recently?

Final season? You guys hanging it up? That'd be too bad.

How do you schedule the regular season? Divisions only make sense when they all play each other and play the same opponents when "out" of the division. I thought it was pretty much perfect in the nfl in the 80s-90s when there were three 5-team divisions in each conference. Half your games were the other teams in the division (8), and 5 more with your division playing another, for a total of 13 out of 16 games with common opponents. Iirc, the remaining 3 were "parity" games agains similar place-finishers from the season before. 26 is a tough number to deal with, since you have two odd numbers in each conference. 3 game schedule also makes it tough. maybe add a fourth regular season game? It would add more record possibilities and even out the point differential (one shellacking wouldn't have quite as much weight). And with 4 games, each team can play all the others in its division.

If the screw is too close to the motor, it can get very buzzy. The motor is riveted to the field. If the rivets have worked loose over time (i.e., there's a gap between the tabs for the motor and the field where the rivets are), you could drill them out and put new rivets in their place. Machine screws might work, but be sure to use a loc nut or serrated lock washer underneath. Personally, I'd go with rivets. Many a 60ish year old board out there now with a perfectly fine factory-riveted motor.

Love Kerry "Cocktail" Collins!

I've found the strong invisibases to be pretty good performers overall, with a higher percentage of useable ones out of the bag compared to TTC or rookie bases. The best TTC base is a good bit better than the best invisibase, though, and not a small benefit is the "steering" control. The fast invisibase skis, however, I've found lacking.

Good idea! I'll need to think about what constitues a totally "open" QB.

If we do wind up getting a buy & sell forum (which would be great), we could 'borrow' an idea from a car forum I'm active on (TDIClub). Normal people can casually buy and sell things as usual, but if you're selling things in more of a business model (reselling, selling parts you make, selling items singly from a large collection even) you need to register as a vendor. Let's everyone know who's who and what to expect. Also, all FS ads must include asking price, location, and photo.