zak99b5

If we do wind up getting a buy & sell forum (which would be great), we could 'borrow' an idea from a car forum I'm active on (TDIClub). Normal people can casually buy and sell things as usual, but if you're selling things in more of a business model (reselling, selling parts you make, selling items singly from a large collection even) you need to register as a vendor. Let's everyone know who's who and what to expect. Also, all FS ads must include asking price, location, and photo.

I've seen that 5-zone passing video. I am going to incorporate the zone idea into deciding if a receiver is "wide open." I think we are going to use the measuring stick to determine how far away the target is. For red (short) pass, roll 00-70 for completion. For white (medium), the roll is 00-55. For a blue pass roll 00-40. We use the pressure placement sticks to see if a defender (must be unengaged) is close enough to intercept the ball. If there's two defenders, it's the one closest to the path between QB and receiver. INT is possible with a roll above 83. If a defender is closer than half the pressure stick to the receiver, it's -5 on the roll (00-50 on a white pass, for example). If a defender is within the orange pressure stick to the QB, it's -5 on the roll. This can be combined with DB pressure. If a receiver is wide open, +5 (maybe +10?) to the roll required. Haven't sorted out fully what wide open means, but I'm thinking a full "zone" between defender and receiver. Also if the receiver is the furthest downfield player. Maybe make those each +5, and can combine for +10. Lastly, rolls of 11, 33, 55, and 77 will elicit a draw from a penalty card deck. Thinking an even mix of offensive and defensive penalties: OPI, DPI, holding both ways, RTP, false start, encroachment, etc.

In our league, we like KORs. No option to take a touchback. It doesn’t slow down a game because the return counts as a play (8-play quarters). We line kicking team up at the 50. Return team has 5 at the 40, 4 at the 20, and two at th goal line, one on each hash. Kicking coach drops a ball between them, and the returner is whichever player the ball bounces toward (no relocating the returner to where the ball lands). Return team pivots players, kicking team responds, and we run the board. Results are very satisfactory with this arrangement. We get returns for TDs, we get some that are inside the twenty, and everything in between. I should average out the results from last season and see what it is, but I’d bet it’s around 25-30.

Our league has the normal rules about the end men on the LOS are eligible (7 total on the line) and 4 in the backfield. If a backfield player is out past the tackles, we have them placed 5 yards off the LOS by rule. Running backs in the tackle box 10 yards off the LOS are eligible for the automatic handoff (no stops during a rushing play), but they can be set closer to the line, as long as they are at least a base length behind the man in front of them. In this case they are still eligible receivers. These rules make certain real football WR formations illegal in our game. Maybe we will address that before next season starts. But the current system does work pretty well overall.

I wish Tudor sold field covers with graphics from the classic Tudor fields--grass and blue EZ 620s, yellow EZ 610s, the first few Super Bowl fields (especially Chiefs/Vikings, etc.

Super Bowls 5, 9, 10, 13, & 14 were all between two old NFL teams. So when an old AFL team faced an old NFL team in 1-14, it's 4 NFL wins to 5 AFL.

According to your rules, I'd say that is not a tackle. Of course, I couldn't zoom and slo-mo the video.

One option is to put him backwards on a TTC base set to run an arc to the outside. (Edit: TE figure is facing forward; the base is backwards so he moves away from the LOS first before coming around and heading downfield.) Sometimes I have the WR outside the TE on the line, so the TE is off the line (our league this is five yards back).

Nice job with the old pat's helmet logo. I need to paint mine now.

You ordered and paid for fab 5 custom painted teams and got ones that just had skin tones and platforms painted? I do not know who paints the underside of the platforms. Just top and sides, as thin as they are. Not sure what the issue is?

I was going to trim the extra off all them and do front numbers as well, but they look more orange so I wanted them to be easily removable for when I do apply decals. But decided against it (after the qb) when I saw what they looked like.

Case in point:

Case in point:

Totally. The yellow #s stink.

Ready for numbers. I bought a sheet of yellow #s from Beenutt a couple years ago, but I'm having trouble laying hands on it. Found a sheet of yellow Tudor sticker numbers. Maybe I'll use them till I either find or buy the decals.

Well there's a few stripes on the helmets so....

Sorry for upside down pic. Also like that there's no leg stripe to paint.

For Christmas son #2 bought me a Mean 13 set. Painting them as I type. Finished the skin tones and the platforms. I am going to make them the Wolverines. Hope the helmets do justice to the originals. No sock or sleeve stripes on the uniform makes them a little easier. And I already have yellow uni numbers from Bnutt. I use Testors paint. Flows and covers well, dries fast. I like the gloss look, just like original Tudor figs.

I'm intrigued by the magnetic field covers. I have two non-metal fields, and old fiberboard 600 (620-size) and a newer HPPS (620-size as well) field. Might be a good way to convert them to being able to use magnetic accessories?

TY62--you just order the ultimate board and tell them what field cover you want. They apply it for you. You could of course get another (magnetic?) field cover to change up the look if you like.

That one Gotham alien figure looks soooooo much better painted.

The original baseball game has a Polo Grounds feel to it with the long, narrrow field. The later square one looks more like a bunch of other tabletop baseball games.

Nice! I'm wondering just how the game was played. Why two "flippers?" Are they to pitch or hit?

My league is refining using dice to determine pass completion. First, with a D6, we had a roll of 1-5 be complete if receiver was in backfield, 1-4 from LOS to 15 yards out, 1-3 from 16-30 yards, and 1-2 over 30. A roll of 6 would be an interception IF there were an unengaged defender within a passing placement stick of the intended receiver. This worked to speed up the game, but was far from ideal, with a QB 18 yards behind the LOS throwing to a receiver across the field and 15 yards past the LOS and a defender right next to him being pretty easy to complete. So we've decided to use the measuring passing stick to determine the roll. If it's a red pass 1-4, white pass 1-3, blue pass 1-2 (same INT rules). This made it a bit better and what we are finishing the season with. However, we want to refine this a bit. I have two D10s, one for the tens digit and one for the ones. But we need to decide on the percentages at the three distances. We found that over the modern NFL history, 57% of passes were complete (I'm sure it's a little higher now). First thought was to use same %s as before (0-66 roll complete on red pass, 0-50 white, 0-33 blue). Then we thought maybe make it 0-70 red, 0-55 white, 0-40 blue. What seems more realistic? Are there better percentages for us to use? Additionally, we are adding pressure: defender close enough to QB knocks the number to roll down 5 points, and a close defender to receiver would also reduce it another 5, with a possible 10 subtracted if both are under duress. It would only seem fair if the receiver is wide open that the roll target increases by say 5, like if there's no defender further downfield than he is on his side of the field (using the hashmarks somehow?) Congrats if you read all this. I'm looking forward to the input of my fellow EFers.

Could you post the measurements of the Tudor passing sticks? The "normal" Buzz Ball passing sticks are based on the yards of an old 620 field and are likely different, as the Tudor ones are based on base lengths. Normal measuring stick is 40 yards long (half red, half white) Red placement stick is 6 yards White placement stick is 12 yards Blue placement stick is 18 yards The pressure placement sticks appear in the photos above to add 3 yards to each placement stick. Pressure measuring stick seems to be about 8 yards.