NO Dave

That's clean. How large will the team be when finished?

OK - I'll have to make a shorter one so I can post here. Thanks!

EF Hero - Have you tried one of these three things - 1. Lessen the angle on the speed cleats, especially the flaps on the back? 2. Clean off the residual plastic on the underside of the flaps with an Emory board on the speed cleats in order to get improved contact with the board surface. 3. Turn the speed down on your Play Action Controller. Hope these help, and have fun!

System - Are you referring to Electric Baseball, or the BallPark Classics Version?

The Brush Primer that you can buy from Tudor works well. They also have Sealer here too! https://tudorgames.com/customs/customize-figures/official-paints.html

Yes, I use Citadel's " Ardcoat" or Mod Podge. Typical stuff. Yes, primer would also be a big help, especially on the Gotham figure.

Good point, Doc Smeby was like their equivalent of George Halas. I should make some "Doc" patches to put on their jerseys. Great idea. Their roster came from the New England team from the newer version of Tecmo Bowl.

Basic acrylics would work on those. I've painted the Gotham figs in the center and the Tudor fig on the right. The Coleco guy on the left would be the same, I'm sure.

Here's a video I did showing an XFL kickoff in Electric Football. https://www.facebook.com/Brouhahhah/videos/10222330945322181

Yes, I did for those. I basically printed them from Powerpoint onto decal paper. I use a font from Powerpoint that starts with the same letter as the team name.

The board can handle it. The only items with figures carrying weight of more than 6 or 7 grams is that they may need to be re-tweaked a little more often, but that also depends on the base they are on. Have fun, experiment away.

Platforms? Yes, I definitely paint those.

I still just don't get a lot of the appeal of Fantasy Football, and I would certainly prefer to spend my money on the Electric variety.

You ain't lying, that dude just totally fell off the face of the Earth.

From the 2019 Season - Here are the rosters for the 12 teams who played - East: New York Hitmen Orlando Rage London Union Jacks Columbus Blitz Central: New Orleans VooDoo Houston Oilers Dallas Desperados Chicago Enforcers West: Portland Breakers Las Vegas Outlaws Los Angeles Express Utah Blaze

When you get the Kentucky Derby game, it will come with the "ski" style speedy Invisibases. The game works fine out of the box, but be careful with horses wiping through the turns, as they can fall over. I did find that adding a little weight to the "undercarriage" of the horses allows them to run a little faster, and they can handle the turns quite well.

Put 3 of the speed skis on a figure, and watch him dominate!

None of the above, I usually use a color that Tudor sells. If I had to paint a base, I'd say this - 1. Use a primer first, then paint them. The plastic is soft, so I would imagine that would help it last longer, and help the base last longer. 2. Do not paint the underside with the prongs. If you want to add something to "toughen up" the prongs, use a squirt of hair spray. 3. As with al painting, allow time for the paint (or hairspray) to dry.

The new NFL series stick-on numbers are really great, and stick better than the varsity numbers. You can also find most of the colors in the solid variety, just look around.

I built stripes using a drawing program, and would then scale them down for decals.

The key to adding weight factors into the player and the base used. If the player is unbalanced because of added weight, he will not perform as well. As far as penalties for excessive weight, we would weigh each player on a team before the start of the game. If the player is overweight, the coach has two options - 1. Immediately correct the weight issue on the figure by removing some of the weight and bring the figure into compliance. 2. The figure would not be allowed in the game. If a figure is thought to be overweight during a game, the coach can ask the referee to weigh a player. However, this counts as a challenge for the coach, and he gets a challenge taken away.

Most weight I've added to a figure - 10 grams. I used a ProLine Strong Rookie base and put fishing line sinkers (the coned ones) underneath, held on by a little bit of Fun-Tak. Yes, the player still moves straight, and he's fairly agile. Lead tape for golf clubs also works well, as does little nuts for machine screws. We use the standard 4g weight for our weighted league. However, for my 67 Big Men League, I wanted to try something different. So now, I have a league where each team (A set roster of 24 players) has a combined weight total of 100 grams. So now you can distribute the weight as you want between all your players. I do include the TTQB as a kicker on my roster, so he gets some weight too. If you want a 6g defensive tackle who will command double teams every play - Do it! If you want a 6g receiver who is a beast to cover - Do it! I can't take credit for inventing the system, but it does lead to a lot of different nuances in strategy and game play. Try it and see!

Base tweaking basics - 1. Think of the prongs under the bases like ailerons and flaps on an aircraft. If you bend the front prongs on one side a little more than the other side, you will see the figure turn in the direction where the prongs are bent more. 2. Front prongs should typically be straight and slightly diagonal, and pointed in the opposite direction from the direction the player is facing. If the prong is curled, you can straighten it by brushing it with the pliers. 3. Rear prongs can be curled slightly to get a little strength, and should also be slightly diagonal. 4. If you're using the dial bases, remember the prongs in the dial are very sensitive to adjustments. 5. You can shave off a little (very little) of the plastic on the edge of the prongs on ProLine bases, and it makes a difference in performance. 5" hobby pliers can be used to squeeze the rear prongs wider and flatter, which will greatly improve performance. 6. Use a cigarette lighter to burn off any residual plastic on the edges of prongs. This should be a quick flash of the lighter, for obvious reasons. 7. The clear Invisibases can really get their performance increased by using an Emory board or nail file to clean off the residual plastic under the base. I also do this before each game, and it really helps. 8. Store bases in a cool (not cold), and dry place. Do not leave your team in your car or non-conditioned space for a great length of time, or you will lose all that hard tweaking work you did.

This is from John Oubre of Baton Rouge, a renowned Electric Football coach and expert passer. Here he is breaking down a great play to use in your next game - IMG_1661.MOV IMG_1660.MOV

As with all boards, motor placement is important. The old rules of "measure twice and cut once" applies, though in a different way. Before you attach the motor to the underside of the board, just add the batteries, and let the motor run of top of the board. Try it out in a few different spots. Best experience has shown that a motor will work best under one of the two "50's" on the field, that is, midfield, but not center of the field. The old games used a corner of the end zone, and that still seems to be a good place.