70s/80s bases vs Proline and ITZ

[Greg F]

Can the old bases be tweaked enough to be competitive with the newer bases?

Thanks!

Greg

[nefgm.org]

Yes!! Any base can be tweaked to be competitive. Tweaking techniques are the same for all bases. Being successful in competition has more to do with play execution, skill in passing and kicking, and offensive and defensive strategy. 

Edited July 31, 2023 by nefgm.org

[Terry43]

23 hours ago, nefgm.org said:

Tweaking techniques are the same for all bases.

I agree completely with Chris at the National Electric Football Game Museum. My only caveat is that the formula of the plastic makes a difference. Some plastics do not age well. The plastic becomes brittle. In some cases the plastic hardens to the point where it's difficult to remove the dial. I've had miserable luck with the old Green Frosties.

Enjoy the Journey  T43.  ⚡🏈♾️

[Terry43]

Greg, I just saw this post from Chris at the National Electric Football Game Museum. Given a choice between newer bases and these older Tudor bases I'm taking these older bases because someone loved them enough to number and play with them. They're like pre-tweaked!

Chris wrote: "Bought these off eBay last week. Some things I found interesting about this team and bases. 

• The figures are Hong Kong Vikings WJ / BS Circa early 1970's 
• Possibly numbered as 1974 Vikings 
• Roster: #10 QB Fran Tarkenton, #44 FB Chuck Forman, #49 RB Ed Marinaro, #42 WR Jon Gilliam, #83 TE Stu Voight, #87 TE John Beasly, #54 LB Fred McNeil, #70 DE Jim Marshall, #77 DT Gary Larsen, #81 DE Carl Eller, #88 DE Alan Page. 
• The bases are vintage single clip bases with numbers assigned possibly indicating that they were part of a "draft pool" of bases. 
• The 10-yard chain is an early 70's "620" size chain marker. 

Another thing that I found interesting is that this is very much the same system of numbering and pose position assignment that I have always used with my team rosters. The only thing different I would have done would be to use one of the wide arm figures as my QB and both end figures as WR's.  I also typically used defensive starters as my offensive lineman and offensive starters doubled as my dfensive backfield players." 

 

Thank you Chris.

Enjoy the Journey.    T43.  ⚡🏈♾️

[Greg F]

2 hours ago, Terry43 said:

Greg, I just saw this post from Chris at the National Electric Football Game Museum. Given a choice between newer bases and these older Tudor bases I'm taking these older bases because someone loved them enough to number and play with them. They're like pre-tweaked!

 

Chris wrote: "Bought these off eBay last week. Some things I found interesting about this team and bases. 

• The figures are Hong Kong Vikings WJ / BS Circa early 1970's 
• Possibly numbered as 1974 Vikings 
• Roster: #10 QB Fran Tarkenton, #44 FB Chuck Forman, #49 RB Ed Marinaro, #42 WR Jon Gilliam, #83 TE Stu Voight, #87 TE John Beasly, #54 LB Fred McNeil, #70 DE Jim Marshall, #77 DT Gary Larsen, #81 DE Carl Eller, #88 DE Alan Page. 
• The bases are vintage single clip bases with numbers assigned possibly indicating that they were part of a "draft pool" of bases. 
• The 10-yard chain is an early 70's "620" size chain marker. 

Another thing that I found interesting is that this is very much the same system of numbering and pose position assignment that I have always used with my team rosters. The only thing different I would have done would be to use one of the wide arm figures as my QB and both end figures as WR's.  I also typically used defensive starters as my offensive lineman and offensive starters doubled as my dfensive backfield players." 

 

Thank you Chris.

Enjoy the Journey.    T43.  ⚡🏈♾️

Agree.  They were loved.  😊

I numbered them this way as a kid.  Used the tall ones as the WRs because they are bigger targets.

I’ll put more effort into the old bases.  The prongs are very rigid.  Any advice woukd br appreciated!

[Terry43]

16 hours ago, Greg F said:

Any advice would be appreciated!

There are Youtube videos that demonstrate boiling bases in mineral oil, or soaking bases in brake fluid, to soften and theoretically make the bases better. I don't do that. 

In my experience, do minimal tweaking and give the bases a chance to play. I've suggest two games in other posts, but the more games the better. Gradually, the strong bases, the fast bases, and the consistent bases will become apparent. And you'll probably have some very memorable games in the process! 👍

Also, the bases that will never work at any position will become apparent. Don't try to save them.

Enjoy the Journey.   T43. ⚡🏈♾️

[Greg F]

I will try several tonight,  I have some lighter green bases from late 70s and darker green bases from early 80s.

The lighter green ones always seemed smoother to me 

[Greg F]

On 8/1/2023 at 11:37 AM, Terry43 said:

I agree completely with Chris at the National Electric Football Game Museum. My only caveat is that the formula of the plastic makes a difference. Some plastics do not age well. The plastic becomes brittle. In some cases the plastic hardens to the point where it's difficult to remove the dial. I've had miserable luck with the old Green Frosties.

Enjoy the Journey  T43.  ⚡🏈♾️

I’m not having much luck with many of them. They shake really bad.