callmegina

No, I just bit the bullet and ordered a new one. But I must say the new one looked a bit more solidly assembled, too. All is well now!

Yes, 1 is the lowest/worst and 5 is the highest/best. I just started with one base, and when it kept beating other bases in head-to-head pushing tests I rated it a 5. So eventually I started to be able to see what bases were 4,s, 3s, 2s, and 1s. I did speed tests a similar way, running the test base from the same yardline as a 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 to see who it could beat. That was a little harder to judge, because of hot spots/dead spots and the fact that not all the bases run the same way. The "general tendency" is what the base (all my bases are ITZ Starter) wants to do when both dials are set to neutral, and after the basic "10 second tweak" to reduce the amount of curl on the blades and help them perform a bit better than straight out of the box. Knowing the "general tendency" also tells me which way to turn the dials if I want to try and make them run straighter in game. I'll probably have to experiment with that a bit. And yes, I expect I'll probably have to change some of my notes/ratings after the bases have played a while -- not sure yet if my Starter bases will stay tweaked or not, and I could probably make some bases perform even better with a re-tweak now that I've done so many of them and have a better feel for it.

So I followed Terry43's guidance and here's how I've got my bases allocated for a game between the 1967 Giants and Eagles (the player numbers are not the actual ones they wore -- they are the ones on my figures):

I just got the new $69.99 AC controller for my Ultimate board. Seemed great while I've had it the past few weeks. But just now, the box part (the one that all the cords plug into) slid off my table and fell onto my wooden floor. It didn't fall hard, and nothing appears broken. But now I turn it on and - nothing. I removed the box cover and looked inside. The inner tightening ring to the AC jack was loose, so I re-threaded it and tightened it up. But all the wires appear connected and I can't see any reason why anything wouldn't work. Any ideas?

Built this scale Yankee Stadium grandstand from two old kitchen cabinet drawers! To make it, I: 1. Stood the drawers up on their fronts and bolted them together; 2. Cut a piece of molding and attached it all across the top to serve as the roof; 3. Carefully sawed out the sides to match the profile of the grandstand's three decks and support the deck panels; 4. Fitted all the square dowels to the spots where the columns needed to go; 5. Spray painted/primed the grandstand a matte black and the sides of it white, and spray-painted the column dowels deep Yankee blue; 6. Cut and test-fitted black foamcore to make the 6 deck panels (2 for each deck; a left side and a right side); 7. Found a good crowd graphic and scaled & shaded it, then had it professionally printed to exactly match the foamcore panels; 8. Found a good clipart graphic of the upper deck freize (facade) then scaled it and had it professionally printed on 8 or more pieces of white cardstock; 9. Spray-mounted the crowd panels to the foamcore; 10. Glue-gunned the finished deck panels into the drawer frame; 11. Glued strips of white posterboard along the edges of the upper and middle decks; 12. Glued Yankee deep blue construction paper to the bottom of the lower deck so that a little would show above field level to look like a sideline wall; 13. Glue-gunned the facade to the front edge of the roof; 14. Got two blue plastic uniform ribbon racks (the things that military people use to mount their service ribbons on their uniforms) and superglued clear plastic beads to them to look like roof light panels; 15. Glued some thin wire behind each light panel to look like support struts; 16. Put a rectangle of fiberfill behind each light panel; 17. Mounted a pair of battery-powered micro LED spotlights to the roof, hidden behind each light panel (when turned on, the LEDs shine between the bars of the light panels but it gives the illusion that the light is coming from the "bulbs" themselves. The fiberfill diffuses the light and keeps it from being too bright/annoying.). 18. Got a packet of birthday cake topper American flags on toothpicks and painted the poles white. Then I crumpled each one with white glue on my fingertips, letting them dry so they look like they're fluttering. Glued them into the roof facade.

The info on it says that jersey numbers are not applied or included in the custom painted team order. So does that mean I would need to place a separate order for a sheet of the correct color number decals? I suppose I'd also need to buy and apply my own facemasks and chinstraps too, right?

Will Tudor custom-paint a historic team, like the late-60s Baltimore Colts or Redskins? Or only the modern-day ones listed on the drop-down order menu?

Trial and error is one way to find out, but I'm curious as to what y'all have discovered and whether youhave found any particular dial setting combinations produce useful effects.

I'm in "training camp" mode with a whole bunch of green and black ITZ Starter Bases. I've got them all numbered, and I'm testing them against each other to rate each base on a 1-5 scale for strength and speed, and note its general direction tendency. Once I have that done, I want to assign bases to certain player positions. What traits are best for each position?

Thanks, nefgm! When kickoffs were from the 40, where did the receiving team have to set up? Were there detailed rules as today about a restraining line, or a minimum number of players at a certain distance, etc.? Also, what were the coverage vs. receiver rules as far as contact went prior to the pass in the air?

I've been looking on the web for NFL rules in specific historical years of the late 1960s, so that I can play games in throwback eras. But all I ever seem to be able to find are summarizes of rule *changes* that happened at various points in history (for example, that the modern "slingshot" design goal posts became official in 1967 to replace the H style). That only helps if one already knows all the preexisting rules from that period that did not change. What I need is a snapshot of the all the actual rules that were in effect at that time. Does anyone know of any links to the old rulebooks?

A Gotham Big Bowl was under our Christmas Tree in 1965 (my dad labored all night to put it together). But it looked amazing! Unfortunately, the grandstand was flimsy cardboard and it got wrecked within a few weeks when somebody caught a foot on a corner of it and tripped (we always played it on the floor). I tried to repair it but my childhood craft and fix-it skills weren't up to the task. I recall the motor was quite powerful and loud compared to Tudor models of that time -- players would sometimes jiggle and even fall over, which never happened on Tudor's more buzzy boards. The players' weights also seemed to make them a little stronger. The metal spring-loaded QB was rather hard to use -- although the idea of the magnetic footballs and the way they'd stick to the metal discs on the player bases made catches easier to see.

They look excellent!

My Ultimate came today and it only has a battery-powered motor. I see no transformer to allow a wall plug-in.

Would one Tudor Stadium be sufficient to make a horseshoe (leaving one sideline open) on an Ultimate (48" x 24") board?

Somewhere online I've seen a cool DIY gizmo that dangles a little football in the air over the field. Any links? How to make?