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Everything posted by plastickrackin101

  1. @zak99b5 just to add to your comment on the model# 635 style 620 super bowl board (615 and 618 are included even though 620 is not on the board is the same build style but are smaller), the 620 became stylized as to the design build not the model number, so all boards after the 620 natural end zone fields had a model# and 620 was the style design build, the 660's came in 2 sizes the older big board model# 660 style 620 build design and the smaller 660 (identifiable at a glance does not have the Tudor star logo only super bowl on the side rail) which is around 2.5in. shorter, model#610 AFC is a 620 style, model#650 NFC is a 620 style, model# 627 is a 620 style, model# 633 is a 620 style, model# 645 is a 620 style, model# 655 is a 620 style, all based on the 620 frame design. the only boards not using the design minus the Model#600 fiber are pan type builds which are one piece stamped Model#500 model#510 model#520 etc.. and the miggle toy super bowl game..
  2. Hi Coaches Soft flexible plastic needs a finish with a flex agent in it for long lasting durability just my 2 pennies..it can be mixed with most paints just have to find the flex agent for the paint you choose to use..
  3. They are between 1:64 and 1:72 depending on which figures you are talking about, true O scale is 1:50 (a little big in my opinion) but I use different scale to represent the difference between larger and smaller players based on the real life size as well as weight, pat fisher standing beside Buck Bucannon or Bob St. Clair can not be replicated using the standard 5 fab poses so I pick my figures accordingly.. p.s. strange side of this is 1:50 O scale is very affordable compared to 1:64th when considering crowd figures for your stadium and it has less plastic, interesting..
  4. @Mike Patton how did your teams turn out ? if not good let me know here and I will share a tip that may help make them look new, let me know..
  5. Hi @Joe#21 Nice team !! if you are still looking for some help in cleaning the 67bigmen figures, you can use LA totally awesome cleaner dilute first and use Q'tips to apply solution work towards a full strength start with 50 to 50 until you like what you see do not start full strength but work up to it and just don't saturate the paint since they are old figures, you will need to of course remove the jersey numbers, if you are doing a repaint strip all paint by soaking figures in purple power (safe for plastics) for 24hrs then wash and let dry, pour hydrogen peroxide in a glass jar put figures in solution and set in direct sunlight for 30 to 45min watching the solution there will be bubbling as it cleans and removes the yellowing of the plastic, hope this helps. p.s. you can also use the HP method on painted figures but its only for yellowing so just figure out what the issue is first by spot testing to see if cleaning is all that is needed.. if neither works and will not remove then the white plastic was injected in to a dirty mold that had amber plastic left over and that cant be cleaned as it is the color of the plastic in the figure..
  6. Hi Coaches! I would just like to make one comment to all the great ones already made and that is be sure to pick clear acrylic and Not varnish as varnish yellows over time and acrylic stays clear unless the yellowing is what you are looking for, everything else stated is spot on and excellent advice, there is great work being displayed here top notch you guys! thanks for sharing... p.s. I also would like to add since TTQB is of a poly type plastic using a flex agent in your paint is a great additive for battling chipping due to flexing of the figure, just be sure to get the flex agent for the type of paint you are using...
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