The Major

Good to see you on the Forums!

Ben I also am a fan of the invisibase. I am currently in the process of performing more experiments on the "speed cleats skis" to get consistent results and expand my knowledge of tweaking techniques. And, I would love to hear more of your experience with the speed invisibases. But I absolutely LOVE the strength invisibase. For me they are the go-to base for the O-line. Especially the interior O-line. I use other bases for my O-line only by exception. I like the snug fit and they perform brilliantly. They are typically slow so don't get downfield too far but they are like a stone wall--very difficult to shift. And with a flat front edge it's tough to "get off the block". Can't say enough good about them.

If you have any interest in this topic, my earlier post above is worth reading again for those who haven't. Suffice it to say, however, I have a LOT to learn about tweaking bases. But it is an aspect of this hobby that I really enjoy. Using my own personal skill and simple tools I am able to craft better performance for my players. Many coaches refer to this as "training your players" and aside from play calling is the essence of "coaching" your players in EF. Kit Kinchen, the Electric Coach, and many many others have elaborated on the necessity of this aspect of the hobby in order to "be good at" EF. Which brings me to my follow up point. If you look at my above paragraph you'll notice the word "hobby" is used extensively. I don't use the word "game". It is an important distinction. Electric Football is a game. It is classified as a board game, in fact. And that is exactly what it is. The most unique board game in the world, actually. So why do I use the word "hobby"? Well, take another board game--Monopoly is a famous example. EF is created so that the game is playable out of the box at the base level. There are numerous videos out there of folks enjoying the game right out of the box using nothing but invisibases and basic players with stick-on numbers--classic EF. BUT, unlike more common board games, one can IMPROVE the performance of the components of the EF game. Let that sink in. It's as if you could somehow make the "Top Hat" piece in Monopoly play better. This ability to improve the pieces (whether it be via tweaking, painting, weighting, customizing or what have you) transforms Electric Football from a mere board game into a hobby. As we move forward in our enjoyment of Electric Football, we should always strive to remember something: Not everyone who enjoys EF is also a hobbyist. And they don't have to be. There are thousands of folks who enjoy playing EF that will never pick up a set of pliers. Some, however, really enjoy both the game and the hobby. I am one of those players. I enjoy the game AND the hobby.

Yes indeed. I have previously elaborated on how much I like the APW system used in the FAT8 system and others. I am intrigued by Glenn's list as well. Jamie uses a "floating" scale based largely on position rather than an absolute scale for weight. In other words, .1g = x lbs for FB's is different than .1g = y lbs for say linemen or QB's. I think this "variable compression" is useful, but I wonder if an absolute scale where .1g = x lbs for ALL positions would be just as good. I would love to hear Jamie's thoughts on this as I would imagine he's already considered this. Regardless, it makes for some great variability and I'll tell you a strong invisibase with a 7.0g big boy on them is a force to behold!

You bet, NO dave. I'll tell you though, the method shown by tweaking video I put up WORKS. Even if you use only two 'skis' you can get some decent speed. It does take some finesse and practice. I will certainly try the 'triple ski' option with the same tweaking method. Hopefully I'll be able to post some decent videos at some point.

Coach Jayd welcome, All great ideas. I'm intrigued by the card system you are talking about. I'm not familiar at all with APBA system. As for variable weights. Jamie Ellerbe is the pioneer on that. His FAT8 system is quite popular and he puts out great content. You may find some ideas by checking him out. Of course, the TOEPRO rules by Coach Kinchen sound like they are right up your alley if you want to avoid the multi-stop route (totally fine by the way. In my experience, the majority of players I've seen don't use the multi-stop method--personally, I like the multi-stop method AND the TOEPRO method and play both ways). As for the passing sticks, yes, I agree with NODave, passing sticks are a great alternate to the TTQB. Again, I love them both, but the passing sticks bring a different element to the passing games. However, the stop-to-throw and the stop-to-catch is necessary when using them. Looking forward to hearing how you progress in the hobby. It's a great one!

Capanther, This was a real treat. Thank you for sharing your REMARKABLE collection. 🤩 The passion you have for the hobby is infectious! I look forward to your next showcase.

Tell you what though LIEFL, for my money, the current tudor bases are perfect. Especially considering the cost. Those vintage bases come at a premium (just try getting ahold of some of the old 'Boat Bases'. You can find them, but they'll set you back a few). Current bases are on sale. More base for the buck. Most of my stuff is on current tudor rookie and TTC. Nearly all my linemen are on invisibases. I use the FAT8 weight system. A 7.0 gram hoss on one of those suckers is pretty solid. I'll put up a video sometime, perhaps, but there are gobs of great strength tweaking videos our there. One of the things I'm going to start in earnest is tweaking speed invisibases. I posted a great video on a different thread that I'm going to try and emulate. I'll post my results at some future point.

eBay, brother. You can find them pretty regular there. Check it out--just do a search for "Elecctric Football" and a whole bunch of vintage stuff will pop up. Glad to see you enjoying the hobby!

That is REALLY nice, Kevbarn. Great craftsmanship. Outstanding idea!

Well done! This is a great effect. Really makes them pop!

Tom, I will chime in here as well. Yes, undoubtedly, the mean 13 figs work seamlessly with the original fab 5. I personally use them for my 1980 Georgia Bulldogs right now. EF Hero's comment above however is quite valid. Because of some of the poses, the gap between the helmet and the shoulder pads is too small to fit a logo (obviously depending on the logo). I've trimmed them to fit at times or hand painted others. However, size-wise, the figures work perfectly. They were well designed to blend with the fab five. NO Dave's repost is a great example. Here's a few pics of my 1980 Dawgs as a further example.

Mr. Victor Robinson made this outstanding instructional video on how to get some pretty solid speed out of your speed invisibases. Many of you may already be aware of this video (put out nearly five years ago now) but others (like me) may only now be viewing it. I plan on duplicating his techniques and letting you know how this turns out for me. Take a look!

Love the FAT 8 system!! And it is fully compatible with Tudor Games products. Jamie has a gaming background similar to my own and has done a great job of bringing his vision of EF to reality. I highly recommend taking a look at his videos and webpages.

Here's some of my work that used when drilling and pinning different legs, heads, torsos and arms together. A bit of a Frankenstein's monster, but they clean up nicely.

I LOVE LA's Totally awesome. Using it right now to strip some figures (they are soaking behind me). However, for stubborn paints easy off is the master. BUT LA's totally awesome is far far easier to use and generally speaking gives good results.

Paul, This does pose a bit of a problem, but not insurmountable. The good ol' dremel drill and pin to the rescue. What I have done in cases like this is to Drill up from the bottom of the base through the foot and out of the ankle making the hole as close as you can to the center. In the case of the piece of broken leg that is at an angle to the base, just drill down as deep as you can until the break point without drilling through the leg (this is so much easier to demonstrate than verbalize). On the figure itself you drill a corresponding hole in each leg--again making the hole as near as the center as possible. Then simply cut a length of steel or brass narrow gauge wire and insert it in one of the holes on the figure itself. Then with a little super glue run the other end in to the base side holes and hold them together until the glue sets. If the pin comes out of the bottom of the base, trim it flush. Otherwise, trim it prior to gluing. If the join is still mostly flush, you shouldn't need to fill any significant gaps. Paint will likely be sufficient. However, if a significant gap remains, you may need to use putty or "green stuff" as it is most commonly known as. Hope this helps!

Robert, yes the easy off works like a champ. Put the figures to be stripped into a sealable plastic container (like a tupperware) and spray the easy off on them while in the container. You are going to use a lot of easy off. The level of liquid/foam should cover the level of the figures. I find it is best to limit the container to about 15-20 figures max. Put the top back on, give it a gentle shake and let that sit one to two maybe three days as the most. Next while wearing gloves and eye protection brush off the figures with a stiff brush--nylon gun cleaning brushes are preferred over steel brushes. Stripping paint is not a task I enjoy. The chemical will burn your skin if you get it on for too long. If you get it in your eyes, drop everything and rinse them thoroughly. Controlling the splatter while brushing can also be problematic. But I've found nothing better. The Electric Coach has a great video demo on this process if you can find it on Youtube. It was either on there or on FB. Either way, I found out about Easy Off from him.

Paul, I have never had a clear coat spray damage one of my figures. The paint itself helps protect the plastic to a degree. However, I am including the link below to Steve's video about the "triple seal" technique he uses. I think you will find it very helpful. https://www.facebook.com/steve.toth.355/videos/3249841965076844/?query=Steve%20Toth&epa=SEARCH_BOX

Paul (if you haven't already) Check out my response to your question in the painting section.

Paul, You opened up a whole can of advice here, buddy. Here's some things that worked for me. First of all, these have all been great suggestions. But here's a few more to add to your toolbox. Take a small scale drill bit in a pin vise and drill underneath that platform foot. A Dremel is even better if you have one. Drill straight up the leg. Drill deep enough to reinforce the foot with some thin brass or steel rod. The heated pin is not a bad suggestion, but you may find the drill and pin method easier to control. Next, you can reinforce that stationary ankle with 'green stuff' epoxy. You may be familiar with it. It comes in a ribbon (usually) of blue and yellow--knead it together and it becomes green. This is a very durable epoxy and remains flexible after hardening. Wrap a small ring of that around the ankle and smoothly blend it to the platform. Between a steel or brass pin and the epoxy you will have one strong ankle. Obviously, overall weight is a concern. Plan accordingly. Painting. Here's some just good solid advice for all EF figure painting. Seal, seal, and oh yeah seal. I'm talking about varnish (spray and brush). The legendary Steve Toth just put up a great tutorial on the MFCA FB page recently (he and I paint with a similar method). But I'll summarize here. 1. Paint the figure. 2. Prior to decal application, spray seal the figure--krylon clear coat is just fine. Let this dry. 3. Apply the decals. The varnish you applied will protect your paint job from the decal solutions (like solv-a-set). Ask me how I know this is necessary...:( 4. Let the decals dry and apply varnish again. Spray or brush is fine here. Let this dry. 5. Add facemasks, chinstraps, etc. Modge Podge or glue these as normal. After they dry, yep, varnish them, too. 6. Steve likes to follow up with a Matte sealer. I prefer them glossy. These same tips work for the TTQB, kickers or punters. BUT....you must watch the leg socket. NO varnish in there. It will gum up the works. You'll end up with a great looking and *durable* paint job that won't chip or rub off after many games. Yes all that varnish adds a little weight. Plan accordingly. Anyway, I hope these tips help. Would love to see your results!

Hi RCG I offer up the following multi-stop method for pass plays. If you wanted to know "my" whole multi-stop method, I will happily discuss this with you but for now, I'll limit it only to the pass play in question. I put "my" in quotes because my rules are nothing more than a synthetization of the many various rules I've read. I picked and chose what I considered the best and use them. Again, I can go into more detail, but we'll limit it to passing. 1. I use a "Snap Action" that I could elaborate on, but we will start from the point where the type of play has been declared--in this case a Pass Play. Offense retains control of the board and runs the board. 2. TTQB: When desired, the Offense stops the board for what I call the "Stop-to-throw" and identifies the intended receiver. If using a throwing QB (like the TTQB) the throw is made at this time. Assuming the catch is made, all unengaged players on both sides are pivoted/adjusted. Control of the board passes to the Defense and play proceeds as normal. 2a. Sticks: When desired, the Offense stops the board for what I all the "Stop-to-throw" and identifies the intended receiver. If using passing sticks, the passing sticks are used to measure and determine the target point of the football. Once the ball marker has been placed appropriately, all unengaged players on both sides are pivoted/adjusted. Control of the board remains with the Offense. 2b. The board is stopped upon the ball being caught. I call this the "Stop-to-catch". The receiver may be down by contact at this point. But if a legal receiver has caught the ball and can run after the catch (either from a reception or an interception), all unengaged models are pivoted/adjusted. Control passes to the Defense and play proceeds as normal. That's all I got. Hope it was helpful.

Coach Kinchen, Do you know of a good instructional video that shows your process to make TOEPRO kickers, punters and throwers?

TREMENDOUS blocks in these videos. Nice tweaking coaches. Those were some fierce linemen and lead blockers. Excellent selection of videos.

Great job!